According to Drinks International’s World’s 50 Best Bars, the exclusive ‘speakeasy’ style’s the one right now. Powder Keg Diplomacy captures the vibe perfectly, with a refreshing lack of the elitism involved with so many of their contemporaries. A true testament to the quality and eccentrism of British produce, PKD live up to their slogan; ‘Honoring tradition, Subverting convention’. Words by Zoe Perrett.
After a hectic rush-hour slog clean across the capital, we’re more than ready to hit the bar running. So, then, heading the wrong way, then pushing the door clearly marked pull is hardly the most auspicious start to the evening at Powder Keg Diplomacy.
Powder Keg Diplomacy
Our fortune changes the minute we’re seated at the bar, goggling at a raft of weird and wonderful spirits and an equally eccentric drinks list. It’s clear the team here know what they’re doing, so I’m more than happy to put myself in their capable hands. Ecstatic, if fact, when my trust delivers a Baron Collins- a zesty, marmalade-fuelled version of the original. The Beer Lover has a tankard of Fyne’s Vital Spark plunked in front of him- I can smell the blackcurrant aroma from here.
The drinks list alone commands some pretty serious time and attention. Unusually, the selection changes seasonally and is resplendent with house-made bitters, mixers, and temperance-style soft drinks featuring chipotle, eucalyptus and saffron. There’s some real beer afficionadoes behind the bar, with the range afforded as much attention as wine and mixed drinks, complete with extensive tasting notes.
Great Drinks, Great Times
It’s a miracle people ever make it through to the restaurant. The barstools, with their close proximity to guys who can wax lyrical about any tipple you could mention, are rightfully coveted, and we’re reluctant to give them up. But the journey’s fuelled an appetite, and we’re led through to The Observatory- a fairytale riot of ornate ironwork, trailing ivy, antique furniture and chintzy crockery.
It’s all rather surreal- like stepping into Alice in Wonderland. There’s even a gramophone suspended from the ceiling, masquerading as a flower with some retro lampshades. There’s no Cheshire cat, although there is a fabulous waiter who praises my choice of a port-infused daquiri and plies us with a plate of soda and milk breads to dunk into walnut oil.
PKD Mixologists
Perusing the menu by flickering candlelight, I’m struck by it’s coherence. It’s not flashy or overlong, but every dish makes sense. If you cook, or just like food, you’ll get it. A starter ‘medley’ of mackerel pate and peppered salmon has its robust flavours underpinned by the earthy sweetness of beetroot soup. My own saffron-infused potato rosti smells appealingly of salt and vinegar crisps (and tastes miles better), but I’m all about the unctuous duck egg on top, oozing into smooth sherry hollandaise- nice.
The Beer Drinker opts for a Grozet Gooseberry ale to accompany a hearty slab of pork belly sat atop a mound of silky celeriac and apple mash and kale. The latter’s rather eponymous here, in fact- cropping up in every savoury dish we encounter. It’s under my generous gurnard fillet, too, served with verdant parsley mash and sweet, tender clams. Sides are a delight- garlicky squash, cabbage with ginger and alarmingly violet potatoes. Well-dressed wild leaves are hot with nasturtium.
PKD Dining
‘Hope you’ve got room for dessert’, our waiter tempts. Go on then. A snifter of ginger beer at the bar has the BD primed for ‘Ginger Three Ways’, which delivers crunchy, biting granita, a sliver of dense cheesecake and a buttery drizzle cake. Chocolate, chilli and lime torte is a decent effort but I’m suffering crippling pudding envy of the neighbouring table’s vast slab of sticky toffee pudding. Oh well- next time.
For this really is a place deserving of a return visit, particularly when your evening culminates with the barman sending over measures of syrupy chocolate brandy. It’s all-too tempting to snuggle into a sofa, order another, and stay till we’re physically removed. But PKD’s team are far too nice for that- they’d probably just pull up a chair, pour themselves a dram and join us.
Powder Keg Diplomacy
To mark their fabulous summer of celebration, Jelly Belly Candy Company has created a fun party-in-a pack of red, white and blue jelly beans.
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